One of the most unique elements of teaching in Thailand, compared to the US, is the frequent government holidays, giving us teachers frequent 3-4 day weekends on a pretty regular basis. These public holidays (วันหยุดราชการ / Wan Yut Rātchākān) provide the perfect amount of time for a quick weekend escape outside of the city but still within the country. As a seasoned New Yorker, I rarely find myself needing a break from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok – in fact, it energizes and excites me in a way I have missed so deeply after spending the last 3 years of my life in fairly sleepy suburban towns like South Lake Tahoe, CA and Beacon, NY. But for many native Bangkokians, and specifically my partner Anthony’s family, the idea of a slow-paced weekend in the lush, rural, countryside is highly sought after. So, let’s go explore outside of Bangkok.
In my experience so far, Thai culture revolves around food and togetherness. Thai people, more so than Americans, are very interested in the freshness of foods, the process of growing and farming it, tasting and experiencing different flavors, variations, and regional delicacies. So while there are overnight trains and flights to Chiang Mai, Anthony’s family much prefers renting a sprinter van for the 8-10 hour journey up country and stopping at their favorite little towns, markets, and vendors along the way. With each passing road stop and market (ตลาด / tà-làat), everyone build up their hoard of market treats to enjoy once we arrive at our destination, my personal favorites being Sai Ua (ไส้อั่ว) and Nam Prik Noom (น้ำพริกหนุ่ม), northern style sausage and a smoky spicy green chili dip.
As I write this blog, I’m snickering to myself as one of our lessons is called “Going Up Country” in which we teach the students essential vocabulary for a weekend trip away.
One of our first stops was the Thaweesin Hot Spring, mostly just to refresh our roadtrip snacks and drinks at the 7Eleven. 
While we didn’t have time to soak and enjoy as I typically would, we stayed to watch the natural geysers erupt a few times. Built directly behind the hot spring is a replica ruin of a Cambodian-style old temple, although very convincing to the untrained eye.
After a few more hours, we finally arrived at the family house in Lamphun. Very much unlike the bustling night markets of Bangkok, the house is nestled at the foot of a breathtaking mountain range and is flanked by a dairy farm and a nearby Wat. While a little remote and rural for me, it is a unique and peaceful treat waking up and going to bed to the sound of monks chanting and cattle mooing.
The next day, we decided to venture out and explore Chiang Mai – only an hour away! The drive from the Lamphun house to Chiang Mai was so lush, craggy and mountainous, and reminded me of my time on the west side of Jamaica. Growing up on the east coast, I’ve rarely seen such dense untameable jungle.
Our first stop was Elefin Farm & Cafe, to grab a coffee and some light bites, while also being able to interact with some local elephants – ethically of course! This was such a magical experience, getting the opportunity to pet and feed a mother elephant and her child. They are such intelligent, intuitive, and affectionate creatures.
The next day we set out for Chiang Rai, in the opposite direction from the house. Our first stop was Rong Suea Ten Temple (aka The Blue Temple). Seeing as this was a full day of sightseeing, we of course had to bring our 15-year old Chihuahua, Channing!
After arriving and touring the outside statues and areas, we were invited to light incense at the shrine and “make merit”. Making merit or “tham boon” (ทำบุญ) is a practice in which Buddhists perform good deeds and acts of generosity, such as giving offerings to monks or animals, to accumulate good karma and improve future lives. This activity is a central part of Thai Buddhist culture, often involving offerings of food, money, or other goods to monks and temples to gain spiritual benefits. With Anthony’s mother being sick at the time, we made sure to light incense while setting intentions of her good health, and alleviating her chronic pain. Even Channing got to be a part of the ritual!
After making my offering, I walked inside to meet Anthony’s Uncle, Na Bo. There was such an energy to this sacred space, and leaves you completely awestruck and overstimulated by the ornate embellishments and decorations throughout, and the vivid deep blue color. We all wai’d (ไหว้) the Buddha inside, and made our way back outside.
Rong Suea Ten (ร่องเสือเต้น), roughly translates to “The Temple Of The Dancing Tigers”. The site originally held an abandoned temple where wild tigers once roamed, unused for around 80–100 years. We were told by monks that tigers used to be seen leaping across streams there, hence the current name. In 1996, villagers decided to restore it as a community Buddhist temple and spiritual center. Many of the elements here, like the Naga serpents guarding the entrance, are executed in the traditional Lanna style as opposed to the traditional Siamese style found in Bangkok.
The Lanna Kingdom (1292–1775) was centered in Chiang Mai. Its art, architecture, and culture is a blend of Burmese, Lao, Mon, and indigenous Thai traditional influences, while keeping a distinct identity. For a long stretch of its late history, Lanna was under Burmese control before Siam (Thonburi/Bangkok) stepped in. In 1775, King Taksin of Thonburi allied with local Lanna leaders (notably King Kawila of Lampang), expelled the Burmese from Chiang Mai, and thus Lanna became a tributary of Siam/Thonburi.
After the temple, everyone was eager for a pick-me-up pit stop, so we found our way to the nearby Choui Fong Tea plantation. The beautifully manicured terraced fields of tea leaves were the perfect backdrop for a quick bite – an iced matcha latte and their in-house delicacy, fried tea leaves. This was such an underrated hidden gem, and a surprisingly grounding way to experience the lush landscape of Chiang Rai, through seeing, smelling, and tasting it.
We rounded out our excursion to Chiang Rai with a stop at Wat Rong Khun (วัดร่องขุ่น), better known as the White Temple with our pup Channing! The temple itself is more of an art exhibit than an actual temple, famous for its dazzling white color and mirrored mosaics, representing purity and enlightenment. Both the White and Blue Temples are an absolute must-see for anyone looking to experience the best of Northern Thailand!
We stopped in Chiang Mai just in time for the Sunday Walking Street Market, starting at Tha Pae Gate and Tha Pae Gate Market. The city was initially planned as a square, surrounded by a defensive wall and moat, with five gates on each side. Tha Pae Gate sits on the main eastern gate, leading directly to the Mae Ping River and beyond to Chiang Rai, Lamphun, and the route to the rest of Siam. Symbolically, it remains the “front door” of Chiang Mai — the gateway that links the Old City with the modern parts of town – so a natural place to begin our Chiang Mai outing!
We walked the full length of the market, watching street performances, and stopping at booths for snacks and trinkets. The market ends at the beautiful Wat Phra Singh. After soaking up the sights, we were ready to pack into the van and head back to Lamphun.
By the time we returned to Lamphun, we were tired, full, and a little sunkissed the best signs of a long weekend well spent. Between the temples, tea farm, and elephants, Northern Thailand had us hooked. And with so many more flavors (and weekends) left to taste, this definitely won’t be our last escape. More adventures soon and hopefully more Sai Ua, too.
This blog was written by Teacher Colin who works at Wat Sutthi Wiraram School in Bangkok
